Date: Sunday, August 1, 2010. 12:00 PM.
I open the door of the small air-conditioned hut and it takes my eyes a moment to adjust to the blinding sunlight outside. I take a few steps through the door, and a brutally hot blast of air instantly reminds me where I am. The mid-day sun beats down mercilessly and I fumble anxiously with my gear, growing more uncomfortable by the second, as I walk toward my bike. I quickly reach my motorcycle and place the sticker on the windscreen, indicating that I’ve paid the park admission fee, as I gear up as quickly as I can. Every moment spent standing in this heat saps me of energy and fills me with worry. It’s 120 degrees outside- ONE HUNDRED AND TWENTY DEGREES- a temperature I find difficult to comprehend, and yet here I am… in the middle of Death Valley… in August… at noon. The fact that my motorcycle is the only vehicle in the parking lot besides the park ranger’s vehicle is both disconcerting and not surprising at all. For a moment I wish I was back in the minimart 100 yards back up the road, with it’s refrigerators full of cold drinks, fans blowing cold air, and pleasant music playing on the radio. There are even a few tourists back there, though I have no idea where they came from or where they plan to go in this heat. I chuckle as I remember the ridiculous look the cashier gave me as I commented about how hot it was outside. He didn’t need to utter a word, his quick glance said it all; “No shit. What did you expect.” When he finally does speak, he makes a crack about how this is a cool spell, and next week they should be back up to their normal temperatures.
From the first moments that I had originally conceived of this trip in my mind weeks ago, this was the stretch of road that most worried me. Every person that I’ve told of my plans has looked at me with the same incredulous look… “you’re going to ride through where? When?” I didn’t intentionally keep this trip a secret from my parents, but I may have accidentally failed to mention it until just a few days before departing. They do worry, of course, as all parents do, so I figure that worrying for a couple of days is better than worrying for a couple of weeks.
I straddle the motorcycle and thumb the starter button, and am immensely relieved as the bike’s engine immediately barks to life, it’s single cylinder emitting it’s characteristic staccato thump-thump-thump-thump sound. As I pull out of the parking lot I accelerate with an urgency, desperately seeking to feel some sort of wind against my now sweat-soaked gear. I am greeted with a rush of scalding hot, dry air that provides no relief. I aim the bike towards Las Vegas, which still sits more than 140 miles away, and I twist the throttle sharply in disgust. I remind myself that an ice-cold beer is just two hours away.
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Three weeks earlier:
(Phone rings)
Francine: Hello? Steena-girl, what’s up? (Pause) Really? When? Hold on, let me ask John…
(Fran covers the mouthpiece and whispers to me): Christina and Billy are going to las Vegas and they want to know if we want to go along?
Me: When?
Fran: First week of August. They’re staying at the Mandalay Bay. Can we go? The kids would love it!
Me: That’s perfect. Quarter-end is over so I can get a few days off work. (Pause) Hey, how about if I ride out there and meet you guys? (Grinning, expecting a ‘yeah, right’ sneer).
Fran: … ummmm, sure. If you want to. (Turns her attention again to the phone) Hey Steena, yeah, we’re in. Let’s talk tomorrow to finalize plans. (Hangs up the phone).
I stare in disbelief, not knowing whether my wife is serious or not. Somehow the reaction seems genuine. Suddenly my mind is racing. Did I just say I’d ride my motorcycle to Las Vegas? How exactly am I going to do that? That’s like a gazillion miles. How the hell do I do that? Is she serious? Am I insane? Is this some weird dream?
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Place: Los Gatos, CA
Date: Saturday, July 31, 2010. 9:00 AM.
Ready to ride! |
The route |
Lick Observatory - Mt. Hamilton |
View of Santa Clara valley from Mt. Hamilton |
Livermore Valley - Del Puerto Canyon |
I decide that my plans to detour down into Yosemite Valley for lunch at the Ahwahnee Lodge are a fool’s errand, and I instead decide to head straight over Tioga Pass in order to enjoy the ride in daylight and still get to my stopping point for the day at Mammoth Lakes in time for dinner.
View of Half Dome from Tioga pass |
Tioga Lake |
Mono Lake |
In the home stretch, baby! |
the magnificence of the park. It’s been years since I’ve been to Yosemite, and the views of Half Dome, Tuolumne Meadows, and Tioga Lake are simply breathtaking. I really wish that Fran and the kids were with me to enjoy this. I shoot some video with my helmet cam, hoping to capture some of the magic of riding a motorcycle on this road. In my heart, I’m sure the video can’t possibly do it justice, even in high-def, but it’s worth a try. As I make my way past Tioga Lake, the road begins it’s descent and the topography and vegetation changes as I now find myself on the eastern slope of the Sierras. The contrast is simply amazing. Gone are the massive pine trees, which have been replaced with low scrub vegetation. barren slopes, steep rocky cliffs, and pockets of snow and ice that hide, clinging to the shadowy crevices of the highest peaks. Several times I have to forcibly divert my attention from the massive drop-offs to my right-hand side and concentrate on the road ahead. The scenery is all at once breathtaking and disconcerting when you’re hurtling down the mountain at 60 miles per hour without the comforting embrace of a massive steel cage and airbags surrounding you. Tioga Pass Rd comes to an end at Mono Lake,
and with some sadness that this magnificent stretch of road has come to an end so soon, I make a right turn on highway 395 and head south towards Mammoth Lakes 30 minutes away. 395 runs north/south along the eastern Sierras, and is an easy stretch of fairly straight road. Besides a few Clif bars, I haven’t had anything to eat all day and am by now very hungry, so I crank the throttle wide open as I imagine what sort of dinner I might enjoy tonight. Unfortunately, wide open throttle on a KLR at 8,000 ft elevation into a 40 mph headwind means I’m struggling to
hold 70 mph, so it takes a bit of time to reach my hotel but I eventually arrive at my resting spot for the night- safe and sound, exhilarated, and thrilled with the first day’s ride. After a decidedly anticlimactic dinner, I retire for a good night’s sleep, and dreams of what the next day holds in store for me. I am serenaded to sleep by the sounds of strong, gusting winds that blow down through the chimney of my hotel room all night making a disturbing howling noise, and by the hooting and cackling of the local kids playing at an apparently all-night miniature golf course conveniently located just outside my hotel room’s window.
Eastern slope of the Sierras on a spectacular Sunday morning |
Fun times ahead! |
Well now, this is a bit anticlimactic... |
in skulls and bones and monstrous warriors and a drawbridge and moat guarding the entrance. Much to my dismay this is, in fact, not the case and I find just another intersection of two of California’s backroads, full of nfinite blue sky, mountains, and a big green road sign. After taking a few pictures to commemorate the occasion, I move on, a bit disappointed by the lack of drama.
Looking back on Hwy 190. Lake Owens on the left. |
Father Crowley Point |
feet. I make my way past the Owens Lake bed, the China Lake Naval Weapons Center, Crowley Point, and through Panamint Springs, all the while enjoying the spectacularly stark and dramatic scenery, stopping to take photos, and wondering what the heck the big deal is about Death Valley. Then, as I come through Towne Pass, at en elevation of nearly 5,000 ft, I begin the rapid descent through Emigrant and into Stovepipe Wells and in less than 15 miles I find myself at sea level, and someone has opened the oven door. Almost instantly, it has become impossibly, unbearably, unimaginably hot. The names of the landmarks now seem to reflect that this is a perpetual situation, as ahead lies the Devil’s Cornfield, Hell’s Gate, Furnace Creek, Dante’s View, and Coffin Peak. Oh, how I long for the relative coolness of a forest fire.
One hundred twenty degrees... in the shade |
Heaven a.k.a. Stovepipe Wells Village |
And then it appears. It sits in the distance like a mirage on the shimmering horizon, but as I draw nearer I realize that it is, in fact, real. At first, I can’t quite comprehend what I’m seeing, as it makes no sense that something like this would be out here, but before me now sits not just a gas station or minimart, but an entire little town. Not some god forsaken ghost town or decrepit meth lab hideaway, but a modern little town with a hotel, swimming pool, store, and visitor’s center. The sign says Stovepipe Wells Village, but it might as well be called Heaven. As I approach the town, the store and gas station are on my left, and I ease the bike up to one of the pumps (the one in the shade) and jump off. In a sequence that is by now well rehearsed, I remove all my gear and fill up the bike as swiftly as I can. I leave the bike sitting next to the pump (it’s the only shade in sight, and there don’t appear to be any other vehicles around in need of gas) and trot off to the store in search of a cold drink and some momentary relief from the heat. I am not disappointed. Inside I find one of the cleanest, most well-appointed stores I’ve yet come across on this trip. I head straight for the back of the store, where a large bank of refrigerators sits, and I grab a large bottle of water and a bottle of Gatorade. The beer section seems especially well-stocked, and I let out an audible sigh. Instead, I find a Clif bar and head for the cash register. As I’m paying, I offhandedly ask the cashier if he has any recommendations for the fastest route to Las Vegas. I’m not quite sure why I ask this question, as I have not one, but two GPS units on the motorcycle already. The cashier retrieves a photocopied flier with a map of the valley, which shows three routes. Two head off on detours to ghost towns. He advises that the route over Ash Meadows Rd is what he would suggest. Oddly, I’ve not heard of this route and neither GPS unit is indicating this as the route to take, but I trust his local knowledge, so I thank him and take the map as I head out the door. He reminds me that this is a National Park, so I need to stop at the ranger’s station up the road to pay the park entrance fee. I pause for a moment at a picnic bench in the shade of the store’s eaves outside the front door to drink my Gatorade and eat my Clif Bar, and to fill my Camelbak with water, and I head back to the bike. I hastily throw my gear on and ride off in search of the ranger’s station.
Before the bike is even in third gear the ranger’s station comes into view up ahead. The small cottage stands by itself, away from the rest of the village. Parked in front of it are a few vehicles, including a park ranger’s truck. There is no shade to be found, so I park the bike in the nearest spot, and run for the door. Not expecting to be inside for more than a moment, I don’t bother to remove anything except my gloves as I pull the door open and step inside. Much to my chagrin, there is a line of people waiting to pay. There is an older couple at the front of the line who are looking over maps and asking questions about different attractions. After several minutes they seem satisfied with the information they’ve received and they thank the ranger and leave. Next is a gentleman with an English accent that starts to ask all sorts of complicated questions about annual passes and whether they cover all national parks and whether he can redeem the entrance fee he paid in Yosemite last week towards an annual pass. My patience wears thinner by the minute as I stand there, helmet and jacket still on, quietly sweating profusely. Finally it’s my turn. I quickly hand the ranger a $10. I ask no questions- I just want my sticker so I can move on. I’m handed the sticker, a receipt, a map, and a pamphlet which warns of the extreme dangers of heat and dehydration. I thank the ranger and briskly head for the door. By now, there is nobody else in the office, and as I step outside all the vehicles are gone except for my motorcycle and the ranger’s truck. I fire up the bike and immediately notice that my iPhone, which is mounted on the dash and connected to a charger that runs to the bike’s battery, doesn’t turn on. Besides providing me with music through my helmet’s bluetooth headset, the iPhone also runs my primary GPS nav, so this is an unwelcome surprise. The more robust Garmin GPS unit mounted next to the iPhone appears to still be functioning, and I believe I have a good mental image of the map I got in the minimart, so I ride off without wasting any more time troubleshooting the iPhone. The Garmin taunts me by telling me I still have over two hours of riding ahead of me.
10 minutes later the iPhone, apparently cooled enough by the blowing air, comes back to life. I am tucked down low behind the bike’s windscreen seeking refuge from the infernal blast of hot wind as I push the bike as hard as I dare. The temperature gauge reads just below the halfway point, where it has been for the entire trip, so my only concern for the moment is minimizing the amount of oil the bike burns. Thumpers, as single-cylinder motorcycles are affectionately called, are typically not high-revving machines. They are the mules of the motorcycle world, in contrast to the thoroughbred sport bikes which can easily rev to 14,000 RPMs. The KLR will protest being asked to run in excess of 5,000 RPMs for any length of time by burning it’s precious engine oil, so I carry with me an extra quart of oil in my bag and check the oil level at every gas stop. For the last day and a half the bike has happily loped along on windy scenic routes, but the route has now become straight and flat and my interest in photographing has waned so the tachometer’s needle now hovers at the magical 5K mark and my GPS is telling me I’m cutting through the hot wind at over 75 MPH.
Made it at last!!! |
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Epilogue
Wednesday, August 4, 2010
After spending two and a half wonderful days in Las Vegas enjoying the pools, attractions, shows, and restaurants with the family, it’s time to make the return trip home. This trip will be quite different from the route to Las Vegas. The emphasis today is on getting home in time for dinner. With over 550 miles on the agenda, and a bike that’s allergic to speeds in excess of 75 mph, this will be a day-long game of going fast slowly. After a quick breakfast with the family, I’m on the road by 8:30, and with the exception of one stop at a Circle-K in Wasco for two slices of pepperoni pizza, my day is largely spent on the bike riding through such scenic places as Barstow, Baker, Bakersfield, and Mojave. After riding west for most of the day, I reach Paso Robles in the early afternoon and make the turn onto 101N, and I feel like I’m on ‘home turf’ now as a head northward towards the bay area. As I reach Watsonville the wind has picked up to a steady 40 MPH from the west, and my bike is leaned over to the left just to go in a straight line. A dense cloud cover has settled over the area, and temperatures have dropped to the point that I can no longer hide from the cold behind my windscreen and I’m shivering, so I pull over at a gas station and quickly put on several layers of clothing. I’m back on the road in a few minutes, feeling far more comfortable, however as 101 winds northward and inland and reaches Gilroy the cloud cover is gone and the temperatures are back in the 80’s. I decide to suck it up as I’m now less than 45 minutes from home. As I fly through Morgan Hill, San Jose, and finally make my way south on 17 to Los Gatos I can’t believe I’ve covered as much distance as I have in one day. I’ve dispelled several misconceptions that I had before this ride- chief among them is that my ass is not twice as sore after a nearly 600 mile ride as it was after a 300 mile ride. I’m rather pleased to discover that somewhere around Bakersfield I reach a sort of ass-pain equilibrium. Also, I discover that there is, in fact, such as thing as too much Creedence Clearwater Revival. Lastly, I discover that trying to wipe bugs off a visor is a rookie mistake. Just leave them be- better a small speck than a huge smear. All that notwithstanding, I am convinced that the very definition of paradise is being greeted at the front door, after 10 hours of riding, by your wife with a kiss and an open bottle of beer.
Thank you Francine!!!
Until the next ride…
-John